Friday, September 26, 2008

Angkor Wat History



To Khmer People, Angkor Wat is more than just an ancient pile of stones, it is more than just the remains of a highly advanced kingdom, it is more than just a tourist attraction - to the Khmers it is a symbol of hope.......

One of these temples- a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michael Angelo - might take an honourable place beside our most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of barbarism in which the nation is now plunged. (By Henry Mouhot, a French naturalist who visited Angkor in the year of 1858 - 60.)

The temple of Angkor, the great historical lagacy of Khmer civilization, stand majestically in Situ in northwest Cambodia. At the heart of the Khmer empire for over 500 years from the ninth to the fifteen century, the monuments constructed during that time belong to the classic period of Khmer art and are unrivalled in architectural greatness. "The temples startle with their splendor and perfection but beyond the emotions they evoke lie complex microcosms of the universe steeped in cosmology". Khmer art of the period includes finely modeled sculptures of startling beauty. "Sensuous, yet never erotic, male and female forms stand in grandeur and dignity offering universal appeal, past and present". Down Rooney,

The sculptural decoration of Angkor Wat is, if anything, even more astonishing than the architecture. That the main temple alone should constitute the largest religious building in all history, covering an area as great as that of the largest Pyramids, is astounding enough; that every square inch of such a structure should be carved and decorated, passes imagination. Yet so it has been, and with a loving care and skill which have infused the cold stone with pulsating life.

The best of this (Angkor) art combines a sensuous sweetness with luxuriant magnificence, blending joy with delight with intense intellectual and imaginative strength!!!
No film, no photograph, nothing can prepare one for Angkor and its impact. It is even difficult to speak of it in other than superlative terms. For it is colossal, enormous, prodigious, startling, awesome....,

HISTORY OF ANGKOR
Traditionally, the history of Angkor as we know it from inscriptions and the existing temples begins in the ninth century, when the young king Jayavarman II declared himself the supreme sovereign and established his capital first near present day Rolous, and alittle later in the Kulen Mountains. Up to that point, Khmer history had been that of small independent states occasionally consolidating into larger empires, but never for long. It took a conqueror to establish the beginning of one of Southeast Asia's most powerful empires.

The Angkor regoin bordering the Great Lake with its valuable supply of water, fish, and fertile soil, has been settled since neolithic time, as is known from stone tools and ceremics found there, and from the identification of circular habitation sites from aerial photographs. For the whole Khmer country, there is more descriptive evidences from the account of Chinese, who began to trade and explore the commercial opportunities of mainland Southeast Asia in the early centuries of the Christian Era. The picture is one of small town-states, moated, fortified and frequently in conflict with each other. The Chinese called the principle country with which they traded Funan; it had a strategic importance in controlling the sea routes around the Mekong delta and the gulf of Thailand. In particular it controlled the narrow Isthmus of Kra - the neck of the Malay Peninsula - which connected eastern Asia with India. Indeed, it was trade with India that gave the Khmer their primary cultural contacts, and introduced them to Buddhism and Hinduism. Khmer religous beliefs, iconography, art and architecture all stemmed directly from India, and this had a profound influence on the development of its civilisation.

The 6th century sees the first historical evidence from local inscriptions. At around this time, the Chinese accounts begin to write of a kingdom called "Chenla" in the interior, but this is a Chinese rather than a Khmer name. In the second half of the century there is a record of a city called Bhavapura, with its king, Bhavavarman I extending his rule from near the present-day site of Kompong Thom to at least as far as Battambong in the west. He was succeeded by his brother, who ruled as Mahendravarman, who in turn was succeeded by his son, Isanavarman I. These three kings progressively conquered of the Khmer part of Funan, while the western part was taken by other people, in particular the Mons of the kingdom of Dvaravati to the W of Bangkok. Isanvavarman I was responsible for the temple at Sombor Prei Kuk, establishing the first of the Pre-Angkorean styles of architecture. Under Isanavarman's son, Bhavavarman II, who took the throne in 628, the empire disintegrated back into small states, and it took until 654 for Jayavarman I, a grandson of Isanavarman I, from of these princedoms, to reconquer much of the territory. There is evidence that he ruled from Aninditapura, close to Angkor. On his death, the empire again collapsed, and his successors, including his daughter Jayadevi, the only ancient Khmer queen, controlled only the small kingdom of Aninditapura. The country remained this way until the end of the eighth century, when Jayavarman II became king in 790.

Jayavarman II's conquest, first of Vyaadhapura (SE of Cambodia), then Sambhupura (Present-day Sambor), then N as far as Wat Phu, and finally of Aninditapura, established his power. He settled first at Hariharalaya, an ancient capital in the region of what is now Rolous, but then trying to go further NW, experienced an unknown setback which resulted in him relocated to the Kulen Plateau, some 30 km NE of Angkor. Here he pronounced himself "world emperor" in 802, but it was many years before he was strong enough to move his capital back to Hariharalaya on the shores of the Great Lake, where he died in 835.

PHNOM PENH CITY TOURS

KILLING FIELD HALF DAY (Joint Tours Daily)
Price: 25$/pax (Min 02Pax)

8:30 am : Start tour visit Toul Sleng Genocide Museum
10:30 am : And then continue to visit Killing Fields
11:30 am : After go to Shopping at Russian Market


PHNOM PENH CITY TOURS (Joint Tours Daily)
Price: 35$/pax (Min 02Pax)

8:00 am : Pick up at various hotels
8:30 am : Start tour by visit Independent Monument, following to Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda.
10:30 am : And then visit National Museum
12:30 pm : Lunch Time (Not included)
13:30 pm : After lunch break, we continue to Visit Wat Phnom
14:30 pm : And then visit Toul Sleng Museum
15:30 pm : Finally visit Souvenir Shop
16:30 pm : Back to Hotel.


Included: All tours are operated a free seating basis, in luxury air conditioned coaches or minibuses and are fully escorted by our professional English licensed tourists guides.

Excluded: All entrance fees and Meals.

Interface


Băt Dâmbâng is a Provinces of Cambodia. The principal office of the provincial government. Battambang Province has a total population of 793,129 (1998 census), covers an area of 11,702 square kilometres and comprises 13 srok (rural districts), 96 khum (rural communes) and 733 phum (villages). The main administrative divisions are: Srok Banon (8 khum, 75 phum), Srok Battambang (10 khum, 62 phum), Srok Bor Vel (6 khum, 83 phum), Srok Ek Phnom (7 khum, 45 phum), Srok Kamreang (6 khum, 47 phum), Srok Kos Kralor (6 khum, 51 phum), Srok Mong Russei (11 khum, 101 phum), Srok Phnom Prik (5 khum, 24 phum), Srok Rattanak Mondul (4 khum, 37 phum), Srok Samlot (7 khum, 49 phum), Srok Sampeou Lun (6 khum, 26 phum), Srok Steung Sangke (10 khum, 63 phum), and Srok Thamor Kol (10 khum, 70 phum).

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Cambodia’s second largest city lies in the heart of the Northwest and until the war years was the leading rice-producing producing province of the country.

Battambang did not give way to the Khmer Rouge movement until after the fall of Phnom Penh, but it’s been in the center of the ongoing government Khmer Rouge conflict ever since the Vietnamese invasion in 1979 pushed the genocidal regime out of Phnom Penh and to the Northwest.

Until the surrender deal of Ieng Sary (Khmer Rouge number three man based in Pailin),Battambang was the Khmer Rouge in the region.

Earlier history saw Battambang flip-flopping back and forth between Thailand (called Siam before their 20th-century renaming) and Cambodia. It’s been a part of Thailand most of the time since the 15th century, with Cambodia regaining control (more specifically, the French) in 1907. The Thais grabbed it again, with Japanese assistance, in 1941 and kept the region in their camp until after the World War II years in 1947.

The Allied Forces helped persuade the Thais that the region was originally part of ancient Cambodia and the world community would not take kindly to the Thais holding onto it further. Like the rest of the northwest, there is still a lot of Thai influence apparent. The main currency is still the Thai baht and many people are able to converse in Thai. But the area is very Khmer, with ancient Khmer ruins scattered about and the ways of life much more similar to the rest of Cambodia than Thailand.

Battambang is the main hub of the Northwest connecting the entire region with Phnom Penh and Thailand, and as such it’s a vital link for Cambodia.

Battambang city is a peaceful and pleasant place these days. The main parts of the city are situated closed to the Sangker River, a tranquil, small body of water that winds its way through Battambang Province. It is a nice, picturesque setting. As with much of Cambodia, the French architecture is an attractive bonus of the city.

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During the pre-Angkor and Angkor eras, the areas to the north and to the north west of the Tonle Sap Lake were known as the territories of Amogha Boreak and Bhima Boreak. During the Angkor period, the territory of Amogha Boreak was significantly prosperous because the land was so fertile that rice crops, fruit and vegetables produced excellent yields. Many Khmer people settled there as indicated by the existence of so many ancient temples in the area. With the exception of the temples of Banan, Ek Phnom, Baseth, Stung, Banteay Tey, Banteay Chmar, etc,other monuments, which were built by dignitaries and subjects at the time as places of worship to God and other deities of Buddhism and Hinduism, almost completely disappeared.

Between the 15th century and the 18th century the area was invaded by the Siamese army, forcing landowners off their land and splitting up their families.

From late in the 18th century until early in the 20th century, the Siamese overran Battambang and placed it under the rule of the Lord Chaofa Ben family, which was later known as the Akpheyyavong Family, for 6 generations ending in 1907.


Battambang townHowever the French Siamese Treaty of March 23, 1907, meant that the Siamese had to return the territories they occupied for over a century to Cambodia including Siem Reap Angkor, in exchange for the Trat province and the area of Dach Se (Lao territory) in the uppercatchment of the Mekong River. On December 6 1907 His Majesty Preah Bat Sisovat issued a royal declaration splitting the Battambang territory into 3 provinces: Battambang, Siem Reap and Serei Sophorn. In 1925, however the Battambang territory was re-divided into two provinces: Battambang and Siem Reap, with Battambang having two districts: Battambang and Serei Sophorn. Then in 1940, it consisted of 7 districts: Battambang, Sangke, Maung Russey, Monkol Borei, Toeuk Cho, Serei Sophorn, and Bei Thbaung.

In May 1953, the Poi Pet administration was founded and ordered under the district of Serei Sophorn which was divided into two districts: Serei Sophorn and Banteay Chmar. In March 1965, the administration of Poi Pet, was elevated to the status of a district named O Chrov. In July 1965, part of the territory of Maung Russey was separated to become the administration of Kors Kralor. In March 1966, another new district Thmar Pouk was founded and the district of Banteay Chmar was cut off from the province of Battambang for incorporation into the Oddor Meanchey province, another newly founded province. In the early years of the Khmer Rouge, two new districts were established: Banan and Kors Lor. During the 3 years and 9 months of the Killing Fields, Battambang saw its people evacuated by Pol Pot's men from the city and towns and relocated to remote and mountainous areas. The province of Battambang, once known as the rice bowl of the country, was turned into a site of torture, killings, and starvation.

The province of Battambang was completely liberated from the genocidal regime on January 13, 1979. At that time, the People’s Committee of commune-Sangkat was founded through the first-ever elections in 1983. Between 1979 and 1986, Battambang had 9 districts and one provincial town.

In 1986, three new districts were created: Banan, Bovel, and Ek Phnom. Until that point, Battambang had 12 districts and 1 provincial town. In 1988, however 5 districts were separated and incorporated into the newly founded province of Banteay Meanchey.

In 1998, following the integration of the Democratic Kampuchea, the province of Battambang saw part of its territory separated for the municipality of Pailin, while 4 new districts were established: Samlot, Kamreang, Phnom Proeuk and Sampov Loun. In 2000, part of the district of Maung Russey was reduced to become the district of Kors Kralor.

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Rice and rubber were traditionally the principal exports of Cambodia, but exports fell sharply after the onset of the civil war, which put most of the rubber plantations out of operation. By the 1990s, however, rubber plantings had been undertaken as part of a national recovery program, and rubber and rice were again being exported. Until recently, inadequate transportation hampered exploitation of the country's vast forests, but by the mid-1990s timber had become the largest source of export income. Exploitation of mineral resources like phosphate rock, limestone, semiprecious stones, and salt supports important local mining operations. Inflation was 1.6% in 2002, whereas official unemployment figures amounted to 2.6%.

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Not a lot of choices-you either have your own motorcycle or you are taking a share taxi. But wait; let’s not forget the train. Or maybe we should. It’s very slow-the railroad does not even want to quote you an arrival time because it’s never the same.
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During the rainy season, it’s a good alternative to the share taxi. The road from Sisophan to Siem Reap is lousy and the water is as smooth as…. well, water.
The dry season eventually makes this impassable as the river water level goes down. Depart Battambang at 7 am, arrive Siem Reap at about 10:30 am. Cost is in the US$ 10-15 per person range, depending on demand. Negotiable.

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Battambang to Phnom Penh 300 baht Battambang to Sisophon 50 baht Battambang to Pursat 100 baht

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The old saying goes “there is no such thing as a free lunch,” but in Cambodia, the old train is still free…. for foreigners, that is. It will cost you in time, however. The Phnom Penh to Battambang journey usually takes thirteen to fourteen hours, if there are no breakdowns. The scenery is not nearly as stunning as parts of the Phnom Penh-Kampot-Sihanoukville routes, but you certainly will get a good sampling of rural agriculture scenery.

Phnom Penh to Battambang –departs between 6:20 & 7 am daily
Sisophon to Battambang –departs at around 2 pm daily
Battambang to Phnom Penh –departs between 6:30 & 7 am daily
Battambang to Sisophon –departs between 6:45 & 7:15 am daily

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Riding by motorcycle is the best way to see the countryside and the sights along the way.

Battambang to Phnom Penh
It’s a tough but doable road if you are on a motorcycle circuit tour. They are slowly (slower than an ant’s pace) resurfacing sections between Battambang, Pursat and Kampong Chhnang, from which the road is then pretty fair to Phnom Penh. On the Battambang –Phnom Penh highway, daytime security is not a problem, but at night scores of military checkpoints spring up with logs being put across the road so that vehicles stop. They just want a “toll fee” but it’s not a fun time of the day to be dealing with the soldiers as they are pretty liquored up by then. Avoid possible problems and just ride of taxi during daylight hours.

Battambang to Sisophon
The trip is about 64 km and takes about 11/2 hours. Battambang to Pursat is about 103 km and the trip takes about three hours. Battambang to Phnom Penh takes about six to eight hours, depending greatly on whether you are riding yourself or in a share taxi (which most always takes longer).

The road between Battambang and Pailin is a very rough road that has only a few decent stretches –it’s a lot better than it was a few years back, but that knowledge won’t mean much to your sore tail-side. Security is not a problem. Getting to Phnom Banan is easy-just head south on the River Road (Road1) about 20 km, which at a moderate pace should take just over half and hour. You can’t miss the big hill with the temple on top, visible on the right side of the road. Turn right at the dirt road that runs smack into the middle of the hill. There are drinks and snack stands near the base of the stairway going up. There is also a dirt road going to the left by the stands that you could take up, but take the stairway as the Khmers did at the time the temple was in use. It’s part of the fun. A round-trip moto-taxi from Battambang is approximately 120 baht including their waiting time.